ROADTRIP: Spring Valley State Park

Spring Valley State Park is tucked away in eastern Nevada.

Spring Valley was one of those I'd never heard of until we made a point of visiting all of Nevada's State Parks, but that could be because I am not an avid lake fisher... person. For being tucked away in eastern Nevada, the park was busy when we visited in late May.

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The drive to Spring Valley State Park is worth the trip in itself. Gorgeous rock formations line both sides of the paved road, and sagebrush and other desert plants give way to trees, promising water just around the next bend. In fact, the plants hug so tightly to the water running along the roadside wash, their presence is the only giveaway until the road unwinds along Eagle Valley Reservoir.

Though the reservoir is just the entrance of the park, the main campground, boat launch and day-use areas are here. The park is a haven for birds, the reservoir is stocked with a number of different trout, and boats are allowed. There are also plenty of walking and hiking opportunities, including around the reservoir and through historic remnants of the area's ranching past.

Globemallow blooms in Spring Valley State Park.

The campgrounds were already crowded on the weekday afternoon when we visited. Horsethief Campground, located right across the road from the reservoir backed up against a beautiful rock wall, looking out over the water, and the grounds were planted to provide some cover. Because most people seemed to be visiting to fish, boats were also crammed into the relatively small spaces. We stayed at (sort of) nearby Echo Canyon, which was much less busy (but catered more to an RV crowd -- hence their tent campground was nearly empty).

This is a gorgeous area, and we'd love to go back. I think this might be a winter destination for us as the more southern location would still make for great hiking weather, and it might be less crowded (maybe).

Recommended: drive, fishing, hiking, birdwatching

ROADTRIP: Cathedral Gorge State Park

Sun shines into a crevice at
Cathedral Gorge State Park.

I am willing to bet, when people think of Nevada, they do not think of world-class parks, but some of the most iconic landscapes are in the Silver State. While Cathedral Gorge State Park might not be quite as known as Valley of Fire, people usually recognize the unique pillars of ash, formed when sediment eroded in a now-dry ancient lake bed.

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Millions of years ago, volcanic eruptions spewed ash, which settled in a nearby lake. As the lake dried, the sediment eroded and not only can the result be seen today, you can actually walk into and explore the narrow -- sometimes claustrophobic -- crevices between clay pillars towering above. It's breathtaking to venture into these roofless caves, especially as the temperature plummets, and I felt it was a testament to visitors as well: People have been coming here for more than a hundred years, and we're still allowed to touch.

There are two entrances to the park, and they are connected by a hiking trail. Driving up to the formations is also permitted in some areas. The north entrance provides an overlook to see the formations in the ancient lake bed from above. We got to the park late in the evening and visited the overlook before deciding to come back exploring the next day. For photographers, the light is tricky in the canyon, and having the preview from the overlook helped a lot for planning the next day's visit. We also didn't get to explore the path down from the overlook as it involved stairs and one of us was still recovering from a broken leg.

Cathedral Gorge State Park

We also opted to stay in nearby Echo Canyon State Park as the campsites had more cover. There are campsites in Cathedral Gorge, located in the middle of the canyon, and day use areas, but because of the landscape and location, they have minimal cover and likely would be very hot and crowded in the middle of the day.

Unlike some of the parks we visited on this trip, Cathedral Gorge is well known, easy to get to and boasts a unique landscape, so the services and personnel were more plentiful. The nearby town of Pioche was also worth driving through and somewhere I know we'll be back to explore. Plus, as pointed out in this great video from Nevada State Parks, the formations are constantly changing, so you never know how it will look when you visit.

ROADTRIP: Angel Lake

Angel Lake is located near Wells, Nevada, and is a beautiful spot for fishing, camping and swimming.

One of the great things about visiting all the Nevada State Parks is getting to hear where all the parks staff likes to go in the areas we visit. On our recent trip to Wild Horse State Recreation Area, we had the pleasure of talking with Andrew about other places we should visit in the Elko area, and he mentioned Angel Lake.

Angel Lake is located just south of Wells in the Humboldt Range of the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest. Andrew warned us that Angel Lake fills up fast and it's easy to see why. The road up to the lake is a beautiful paved drive that climbs to 8,000 feet, which deadends right at the lake ($6 to park). The week we visited, temperatures were climbing past 100 in Fernley, so the cold, clear water of the glacial mountain lake were more than welcome.

The area is a strange mix of jurisdictions, with most of the area being USFS, and the two campgrounds subcontracted to private companies. When we were there, they were only marginally maintained, and not as well as when these facilities are more professionally staffed as with the state parks. We stayed at Angel Lake Campground, the facility located directly adjacent to the lake, which was obviously more heavily used than Angel Creek Campground, located farther down the hill, and paid half price ($8.50) for a site because there was no water available (no explanation was given).

Angel Lake Campground. See more photos.

So for the price, this was a great site, and the view was spectacular. My complaint with campgrounds holds with this one: They are too close together and you can hear everything. The people closest to us had a loud talker and I have a loud snorer, so we cancelled each other out, but it's annoying. There are no trees for cover either, so you can really see everything as well. The bathrooms were clean and neat, but there were bags of trash piled at pretty regular intervals along the road; I'm not saying the flies were hella crazy only because of this, but it certainly didn't help. Also, the host's area was really... not welcoming, and you are instructed to "see host" before you take a site, so that's not so fun.

Angel Lake Campground. See more photos.

But all in all, so beautiful and a wonderful mid-week escape from the desert heat. The lake is stocked with trout, but it's really small, so I don't think they probably get to any great size. Boats are allowed without a motor, but again, you aren't going to get a lot of people out there without running into each other. The morning I went out, I was all alone (except for about 50 ground squirrels lined up on the bank drinking), the melting glacier water running down the mountain side and tiny trout babies biting my toes. Heaven.

ROADTRIP: Beaver Dam State Park

Cactus blooms in Beaver Dam State Park. See more photos.

Nevada State Parks has a really lovely passport they give out that has suckered us nicely into trying to visit every park in the state (well done, NSP). Not like it's a hardship; the Nevada State Park system is incredible; our state is diverse and beautiful, and the parks are no exception.

Recently we set out to see the parks we hadn't been to yet along highways 80 and 50 in eastern Nevada, but after getting out, we turned south, and ended up getting eight parks knocked out in the three days we were gone.

Beaver Dam State Park was one of the most surprising. As far as we could tell, the park was completely deserted. We were traveling the third week of May, to avoid Memorial Day traffic, so it was still a little early in the season, but as far as the heat goes, I wouldn't want to go any later into the summer. As an added bonus, and another reason not to delay into the summer, wildflowers and cacti were in full bloom all over.

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The road in to Beaver Dam is dirt/gravel, but it was not heavily used, so there is no need for four-wheel drive or a high-clearance vehicle. Honestly, the road was nicer than many of the paved roads we drove during this trip. Once in the park there were some areas where high-clearance was nice, and during the winter months the roads would probably be difficult for cars.

Waterfall Trail crosses a creek before heading toward the Utah border.

We didn't get a chance to do a lot of exploring, but we'll definitely be back as the area was gorgeous. The campground looked well maintained, and was in a really beautiful area overlooking the water. The sites were very close together and the brush was sparse, so neighbors would be visible/audible if the site was crowded, and you can't reserve sites. We also noticed port-a-potties, so I'm not sure if the regular bathrooms were closed if there was other construction or renovation going on.

This is a pretty primitive park in that they don't cater to RVs or ATVs and your phone probably won't work; this is more for the hikers and fisherpeople. The area is rocky and mountainous, so the hiking trails are fun, if on the more strenuous side, especially if it's hot outside. All in all, a great, out of the way place where we can't wait to spend some more time.

ROADTRIP: Roger Williams Park

Soundtrack for this roadtrip: 96.9

Since Roger Williams Park is so close to me, it might not technically qualify as a roadtrip, but if you're not in the Providence area, it's definitely worth the trip.
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On more than 400 acres, you'll find some serious New England beauty -- especially this time of year. Fall color hasn't been the greatest -- the poor trees around here were decimated by gypsy moths (I'm not sure if they tried to do anything this year, but they've been a scourge since last summer) and a series of storms has taken many of the remaining leaves -- but you can see where this park would shine no matter what the season.

One reason this felt like a roadtrip to me was because I'd wanted to visit Roger Williams Park every time I passed the exit. I knew there was a zoo, and Providence friends have told me there are trails, but I didn't realize until getting the meeting location for the New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS), there's also a Botanical Center.

Although I will go back for the many other attractions in the park, the Botanical Center would have been my first stop regardless, and it didn't disappoint. The NECPS has a carnivorous plant bog in the Botanical Center -- the first permanent installation I've seen. The center also has a wonderful collection of "house plants"; I wonder anew every time I see these home store staples in a much more natural setting. I rarely have more pleasure than when I'm reminded that the most commonplace things shine beautifully when they aren't removed from their place in nature.

The park also houses a museum and planetarium, a carousel and swan boats on one of the copious ponds. Be very careful of runners; honestly, the setting is so gorgeous, getting distracted is easy.

ROADTRIP: Rhode Island Circle

Soundtrack for this roadtrip: America's Test Kitchen

Because my commute in Nevada was as long as the whole state of Rhode Island, I tend to think getting anywhere doesn't take long. But yesterday I had several fun choices, and decided to make a roadtrip out of the day. And because of the way Rhode Island is shaped, I went through two other states.

My original plan was to head to a park in Westerly, and then stop by Newport on my way to a presentation in Bristol. I didn't realize how much longer it takes to go south to north by way of the peninsula, so my route was altered somewhat, but I still ended up making a big circle and hitting everywhere I wanted to go, and seeing most of Rhode Island. The trip ended up being almost exactly 100 miles. My original probably would have been fewer miles, but again, I didn't look at the times before I left. Ignorant.

The first stop was Wilcox Park in Westerly, one of the southernmost towns in Rhode Island. The town is gorgeous, and in the middle is the Westerly Public Library and Wilcox Park. The University of Rhode Island Master Gardeners host tours of the gardens and arboretum pretty regularly, and this particular tour was a look at the Champion Trees. I should have been taking notes, but of course I was too busy taking photos, so I know some of these and none of the flowers (that's later in the month).

So, going up and around the Bay through Providence and back down to Bristol, I attended a meeting of the New England Carnivorous Plant Society, and a presentation by a wonderful young man from Harvard who is researching the coloration of pitcher plants. I have often wondered why pitchers or traps are different colors, often on the same plant -- research is ongoing. I also came home with a new baby -- Drosera spatulata -- whose name cracks me up. Whoever named it is my kind of literal. The meeting was held at the Rhode Island Audubon Society, a beautiful facility that's now on the list for whenever my mom visits. I'll probably be tired of seeing wild turkeys by then, but maybe not. They're pretty funny.

The drive from Bristol to Newport was the most beautiful, leaving me with some notes about where to hit again, including Wyatt Road and the Common Burial Ground -- a network of graveyards in Newport that seem to be segregated by religion (something I hadn't really realized about graveyards until my grandmother's funeral a couple of months ago). There are graveyards everywhere here, and I can't wait to start documenting the ones I see -- and figuring out how to take better photos of them.

Getting home from Newport, another beautiful old town I need to explore more, included crossing the Newport Bridge and lighthouse sightings -- another relic in abundance here, which I can't wait to explore more.

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Route map

ROADTRIP: All roads lead to Virginia City

There are always attractions where one lives that residents view with disdain: too touristy, too expensive, crowded, no parking. The way Southern Californians view Disneyland, Nevadans the casinos, or Londoners everything in the city 100 years or older. I feel this way about Virginia City, and am surprised when everyone who lives where I do (i.e., anywhere in the West) doesn't feel the same way.

After a Fourth of July there two years ago -- in which The Boy had an uproarious time laughing at everywhere not having what I wanted to eat -- I swore I never needed to go back. Which is why now it seems to be a hilarious thing to have every weekend roadtrip somehow end up there. Every back road and Jeep trail in western Nevada leads to the freaking place! Last weekend, an innocent trip to Fort Churchill ended up rolling into VC from the east, and then this weekend we managed to find out way there north-ways from Fernley (and visited the Lagomarsino petroglyph site on the way back). And I have to say it's growing back on me a little, especially since they do have good barbecue.

But I do still enjoy listening to my roadtrip partners grouse about the parking.

ROADTRIP: Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest

The Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest is home to the oldest trees on the planet, and they are spectacular to see. Especially when you realize they've been spectacular to see longer than we've had a country to see. The trees live in extremely harsh conditions and poor soil, and for some reason it makes them live a very long time and grow very strangely. They can live in better soil and conditions, but they don't live as forever or as twisty.

These ancient bristlecones are in Inyo National Forest, west of Big Pine. There is also the ruin of an old mine to look at when you get tired of trees. Not that I ever do. In fact, the idea of seeing the oldest tree in the world -- more than 5,000 years old -- is exciting to me in the way most people reserve for say, George Clooney. Especially when you stop by the Visitors Center and it's manned by Forest Service personnel just as excited about trees as I am (and who say, of course Wonder Dog can come in the new beautiful Visitor's Center. How cool is the Forest Service?). And I completely understand why the tree is not marked. I would not want the oldest tree on the planet vandalized, and it's fun to try and guess which one is the great tree.

If Great Basin Bristlecones weren't too busy growing into twisty shapes at an exceedingly slow pace, they might have time to argue with mesquite and creosote about what's the oldest organism on earth. Or maybe they don't think of themselves as separate.

ROADTRIP: Unionville, NV

We've been spending the last couple of weekends hunting ghost towns in northern Nevada. I80 north and south of Lovelock is studded with old mining towns. Unionville is not actually a ghost town, since people still live there (about 20), but I use it as a landmark because it does still exist. Plus, it has an awesome history: The town was called Dixie by the Southern sympathizers who settled there, but was renamed Unionville by the more North-leaning citizens in the 1860s.

Most of the photos here are from Humboldt City, a deserted silver mine. From I80, head south on SR400*. There is a marker for the Unionville turnoff; continue south on 400 and turn west on the Lovelock-Unionville Road. The road makes a beautiful loop around Indian Peak to meet back up with I80. Humboldt City and other ghost towns can be found all the way around.

*Depending on what map/GPS/sign you are looking at, all the roads in this area could be called something different. Some of the names are pretty awesome.

ROADTRIP: Bodie State Park (and ghost town)

About 95 percent of Bodie is lost in the dust, but what remains is a fun look at what gold mining towns looked like during the rush West. The boomtown was home to about 10,000 people in the 1870s, and, had it been easier to get the railroad through the mountains, Bodie might still exist. A combination of horrible climate, backbreaking work, unpredictable economy and 65 saloons made Bodie a dangerous place to live. If you managed not to get murdered, you were likely robbed -- on foot or in your stagecoach.

Calling Bodie a ghost town is accurate, as far as there being a semi-preserved buildings in a defunct town, but Bodie is a state park, so it's unlikely you'll feel alone. The photo opportunities are abundant, but you'll likely have to wait awhile if you don't want live 'uns walking through your ghost-town shots. Also, most of the buildings are closed to the public to keep them in their pristine state of falling apart.

This is all probably for the best though, since the drive into Bodie is long, mostly because the road minimally maintained -- and closed much of the year -- and if you were to have car trouble without the hope of someone else coming along, we're talking tough times.

The turnoff to Bodie is on I-395 at Bridgeport. You can also reach it from the east off NV-95 at Hawthorne. There is a small entrance fee, and you can also buy a walking-tour booklet full of maps and other good information. Though the park is open year round, if you aren't going in the summer, visit the state park site to make sure  the road is open, and to check hours and fee information: parks.ca.gov/bodie

ROADTRIP: Manzanar War Relocation Center

In all, about 10,000 people were interned in the one square mile that makes up Manzanar War Relocation Center. Across the country, more than 100,000 people, mostly American citizens, lost their homes, possessions, money. They could only bring what they could carry -- partially dictated by government order -- and were given a couple days or a week to decide what they needed -- just long enough to really agonize over what they would be forced to leave behind. Although we use the term "internment camp", probably to differentiate from camps in other parts of the world during WWII, these camps fit the definition of concentration camps (concentrated minority groups in a prison camp), and are recognized as such.

I held it together until I read one man's story of what he remembered taking as a child: a photo of his dog.The story of internment is so awful and senseless as to be inconceivable, and there is a little boy who has to leave his dog behind -- not because there is a natural disaster, or the family has made a decision to move, but because he was born to Asian-looking parents. I say "Asian-looking" because my own home state also interned coastal Alaska Natives because they appeared vaguely Japanese. Manzanar was just the first such camp.

The government first tried a voluntary relocation -- surprisingly that didn't work -- and then after forcibly relocating 100,000 people, our government had the nerve to try and press them into military service. Again not surprisingly, few volunteered. The few who did volunteer were called "loyals" and those who declined were "disloyals". Oh, the irony of the government putting their own citizens out of house and home, and then calling them disloyal. Probably there weren't designations for "scared to say no" and "pissed off and nothing more to lose".

Of course, the Japanese men who did sign up -- the 442nd -- became one of the most decorated units to return. And the flags of those who didn't were presented to wives and mothers still behind barbed wire.

Most of the buildings are gone now, but signs still mark where the newspaper ("free" press, indeed), baseball diamond, hospital (and what remains of a beautiful Japanese-style garden) and camouflage net factory stood. There is also a monument to those who died in the camp on the site of the cemetery.

A plaque recognizing Manzanar as a historic landmark reads: "May the injustices and humiliation suffered here a a result of hysteria, racism and economic exploitation never emerge again." Amen.

ROADTRIP: New life in Death Valley

While the name conjures the idea of a place where nothing could possibly live, when you take a close look, you can easily see the tracks of snakes, lizards and birds in the sand of Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. A natural spring feeds the beautiful gardens and swimming pool of The Inn at Furnace Creek. Sand Creek is home to a pup fish that lives nowhere else – an Ice Age leftover that adapted as the area turned from lake to desert, as well as a lot of lizards like the blue-spotted fellow below. Most everyone is blend-in brown.

Birds play in the wind around Ubehebe Crater, created when a volcano blew hundreds of years ago. And humans flock to Scotty’s Castle, not so much a castle as a millionaire’s vacation home built in the 1920s.

Getting There
Death Valley National Park is well marked from both Nevada and California, and spring is the best time to go, but watch for closed roads even as late as April. If you have, or can rent, an all-wheel or four-wheel drive vehicle, these will be your best bet because you won’t have to mess with tire chains, but if you are traveling any of these roads from October-April you might want to have some in the car just in case. Once you get out of the major cities, you’ll pay through the nose for a set.

CA-190 runs (sort of) through the middle of the park, and you can get to the west side from Reno, Sacramento or Los Angeles, and to the east side from Las Vegas.

From Reno, US-395 heads south, crosses into California, runs down the east side of Yosemite National Park, and then down the west side of Death Valley National Park, which sits along the Nevada border. From US-395, CA-190 or CA-136 head into the park.

From Sacramento, US-50 will connect with US-395 south toward the park and most of the On The Way destinations. This section of US-50, one of the most beautiful (and also called the loneliest for its stretch east of Reno) highways in the country, also goes through  Eldorado National Forest and just south of South Lake Tahoe.

From LA, US-395 heads north. From Vegas, US-95 or NV-160 will take you to Death Valley in about the same amount of time.

In the Park
There is a per-vehicle or per-person fee to enter the park, and kiosks are conveniently located. There are two hotels (ranging from pricey to holy crap) and camping in the park; check website to find information and pricing.

Leashed pets are allowed on established roadways and in parking areas only, and are not encouraged because of the extreme temperatures. The usual rules apply: Leave no trace and take only pictures. No off-roading is allowed, don’t shoot your guns and build your fires only in established pits. In other words, don’t be a jerk.

Pay careful attention to gas while driving in the park. There is a (expensive!) gas station, but it’s easy to run out while you’re seeing the sites. If you’re renting a car, take a look at the spare, jack, etc. You likely won’t have cell service in the park, and depending on the time of year, who knows when the next car will be along?

ON THE WAY: Montgomery, Ala.

Apart from the usual beauty of a historic capitol city, Montgomery also holds some of the most important Civil Rights Movement landmarks in our country. The main north/south street running through downtown is Decatur, which is one block west of the Capitol and crosses Dexter Ave., home of the famous Dexter Avenue (now) King Memorial Baptist Church, where the great man was twentieth pastor. The site has been a church since 1879, and Dr. King directed the Montgomery Bus Boycott from his office there. I was overwhelmed to attend Rosa Park’s funeral here before she was honored at a ceremony in Washington DC. There is now a museum on the site as well.

One block south of Dexter is Washington Avenue, where you can see the Civil Rights Memorial and visit the attached center. The Memorial was designed by Maya Lin, and honors those who died during the Civil Rights Movement (the years between the Brown v. Board decision in 1954 and Dr. King's assassination in 1968). Visiting the memorial is free; admission to the center is $2 for adults. Just north of the Capitol a couple of blocks is Oakwood Cemetery, where Hank Williams Sr. and his wife Audrey are buried.

If you have time, and want some really good Caribbean food, continue south on Decatur and head west on Martin Luther King Jr. Expressway. Cross over I-65 and continue west on Day St. Turn left on Air Base Blvd and you'll see Island Delight.

If you have less time, continue south on Decatur, and the road becomes Norman Bridge (you'll pass by Alabama State University). On the left in the Old Cloverdale neighborhood you'll find Derk's Filet and Vine.

ROADTRIP: Discovering Southern color

East Coast, schmeast coast. If you want great fall color, look to the South, specifically somewhere like Cheaha State Park in northeastern Alabama. Check out all the fun and beauty in the latest issue.

Cheaha is in the Talladega National Forest, and, as part of the Appalachian Mountain foothills, is the highest point in Alabama. Conveniently located, and incredibly gorgeous, Cheaha is a jewel Alabama parks has really taken advantage of fully.

There are numerous trails, and a handy Fall Color Report on the park website for tracking where to catch the best leaves. The photos in the main story here are from the Odum Scout Hiking Trail, but the whole area is beautiful. Other trails access a lake for swimming, waterfalls, mountain biking, and there’s an observation tower at the highest point in the park. All manner of camping accommodations, a restaurant and gift shop are also sprinkled throughout the park.

There is a $3 day-use fee ($1 for seniors) for some areas of the park. Cheaha is very dog friendly, and even has cabins dog owners can rent for an additional charge. I can't wait until the National Parks Service figures out it's better to be dog-friendly and charge/fine instead of trying to ban pets that are going to be brought along anyway.

While you are checking the Fall Color Report and activities on the Alabama Parks website, make sure you check the park history section of the site for some amazing archival film footage and photos from the 1930s.

Getting There
Cheaha State Park is located between Birmingham, Ala., and Atlanta, Ga., on Interstate 20 (I-20), and about 90 miles north of Montgomery, Ala., on Highway 231 (US-231). From either Birmingham or Atlanta, take exit 191 and turn south on Highway 431 (US-431). Take the Highway 281 (US-281) access road and watch for the Cheaha Resort State Park exits.

From Montgomery, there are two ways to go. The probably shorter way, and the way that takes you past the cemeteries, lake, goats and funny church signs in this issue (ok, the goats were hilarious too). I’m telling you my way: Take US-231 north to Sylacauga and turn right into Talladega National Forest (State 148). State 7 will take you north from there to Cheaha by way of Clairmont Springs Road and Talladega Scenic Highway. If you are interested in the shorter way see the Cheaha website.

ROADTRIP: Reiman Gardens

This season's issue is about short drives from Des Moines, Iowa, and a great one to take right now is just a half hour north to Iowa State University in Ames, the home of Reiman Gardens and host right now of Sean Kenney's amazing Lego sculptures. Since moving to Des Moines, I've wanted to visit Reiman, but couldn't get The Boy interested; Legos are the answer. A great pamphlet picked up from the Reiman information desk shows where all the sculputures are (you can miss the showier ones, but some blend in amazingly), and tells more about the artist, one of a handful official Lego artists. Photos of all the sculptures are below, but if you are planning on going, it's better if you see them first in person. Just look at the butterflies, which are usually one of Reiman's main attractions.




I noticed in Juice that there was a bluegrass band playing at a winery in Madrid, and now that I'm pretty familiar with Madrid, figured I could make my way over there on the way back. Sure enough, there was a sign pointing the way to Snus Hill Vineyard & Winery right from I-35, so we had a beautiful drive sort of the width of Des Moines but much more north. Highway Home Blue Grass Band was great on a weather-funky afternoon, I now have a nice gift (with the help of a lovely Snus staffer, since I can get excited about everything wine right up until the drinking) for my housesitter, and The Boy met Clive, a gorgeous frog of some sort he named and really wanted to bring home although of course he said he understands that's not ok.